Видео

Glad you got it figured out. The bushing I usually use is 1/4" Od and 3/16" ID. Still a bit loose as these nails measure about .171 diameter and 3/16 is .187. Best of luck with your whirligigs. !

Thanks for the kind comment

Thanks

just make sure you get the deck height/conrod length right! theres a near century old typo in the plans...

@@paradiselost9946 yes and the bolt holes for the head are extremely close to the cylinder opening.

Thanks for the comments. The "action cam" is actually mounted on the rear of the boat itself. It's connected to a servo so that the camera can swivel left and right. Had some trouble with the engine stopping due to condensation of the steam in the cylinder.

The ordering page is down. You can contact us through the web page or at the listed email and request a Air Coupe plan set. $15 includes USPS shipping with Paypal. Go to gwheyduke.com and click on "contact" link.

Not sure of the RPM range, probably something like 1200 to 6500 top. The cam lobes are 110 degrees apart. 1" bore with 3/4" stroke, with two cast iron piston rings

@@gwheyduke thank you for the reply, really awesome build mate

Thanks for the comment !

Sounds like an interesting idea, should work fine and be fun to watch running.

Thanks, this is the second one I've built.

Love this engine. Great runner. Any build videos?

You can make a propeller hub using a hand saw and a miter box it will work. The slots for your blades don't have to be a perfect angle, it will still work ok. Starting with Square hubs make it easier to cut the slots by hand.

@@gwheyduke thankyou for replying, much appreciated,

Getting the hub slots the exact size can be difficult. You can try different saw blades. Some are thicker than others. Some builders stack two blades together to form a specific thickness dado cut. Another trick is to simply run the hub through the saw blade multiple times to open it up.

Thank you for the kind comments!

Thanks for watching!

Yes, that correct. With 6 cutting stations, the result is 3 hubs for each opposite spinning direction. The angled cross boards are simply supports for the hub blanks. You could install more with a longer sled. With a little modification this method would also work for round hubs.

What size hubs do you need, and how many? I have a just a few left. You would need to make your own blades; the slots are approximately 3/16-inch width.

Yes, I have made a few in the past. It would depend on the type and size of the propeller you need. Usually around $25 USD for a typical wooden propeller.

@@gwheyduke Thank you so much. Do you accept PayPal? Would that include shipping costs, as well? I will find the dimensions for you.

Yes it does. At the time the video was recorded the valve timing was a little off and the rocker arm gap was too big.

@gwheyduke that would explain alot 😅 I would have wanted a brass oilite bronze bushing for both ends of the camshaft for longevity

The cutting jig for the wing hubs is simply a small table saw sled (16" long by 13" wide) made of 1/2" plywood. The 5 miter gage boards in the inside are 3/4" by 2 1/2 " set at 35 Degree angle to the center line (where the blade comes up in the middle). 7/8" hub blanks are clamped vertically to the 6 stations directly over the blade. It helps to glue a vertical support to hold the blanks (90 degrees) up right. You have to make two passes with each set of hubs. ( One one on each end of the blanks and of course you must flip them over after the first cut while being careful to keep them oriented the same way as the first cut. ( don't accidently flip them around or you will have the slots in the same direction.) Here's the video - ruclips.net/video/FLTYotEvtOY/видео.html

Thanks for sharing that with me. Now could you be so kind to tell me how you made the drill press jig. Thanks so much.

It looks like the jig is simply made of six pieces that are the same size as a hub assembled in a crisscross fashion. Is this correct?

Yes, it's true.

Glad you enjoyed it!

If the fixture is set up correctly, hitting the hinge is unlikely.

Thanks for the kind words, glad you found it helpful.

Great question! I use a benchtop drill press to make sure the hole is 90 degrees to the center line of the whirligig body or base. It's best to drill it before painting, that way you can draw a centerline through the main part of the body, then I clamp the body to a machinist's 90-degree angle plate, you could use a carpenter square and a block of wood to hold it straight while you drill the pivot hole bearing hole.

Thanks, been working on getting a little more speed. Next thing is to add the rudder and radio.

So nice of you

Thanks